These unpleasant weeds always complicate our lives. They make us work in the garden more than we would like. Weed control requires constant attention, a little gape - they again covered the site with a continuous carpet. How to deal with weeds in the suburban area? Is it possible? How to poison weeds in the garden? Do I need to get rid of them? What harm is it from them? Which are the most harmful? What means for struggle exist? Which ones must I get rid of? What if they bring benefits, but we fight, fight? ... I propose to find out more what weeds are growing in the garden. If possible, the photo and name of the weed will be presented.
There are many herbicides for weed control, weed control. Each is designed for specific species. Read the instructions, choose the most suitable drug for your garden. After all, every weed grass has certain properties to respond to a particular drug. There are even special tables that take into account the sensitivity of a weed to a specific tool.
Herbicides from weeds, which are what to apply
By the nature of the effect, the herbicides are divided into continuous and selective preparations. Continuous herbicides (poison from weeds) affect all types of weeds, while selective herbicides are dangerous for some, but relatively safe for other plants.
According to the effect of herbicides, there are contact and systemic.
Contact plants are affected by direct contact with leaves, stems or roots, causing burns, necrosis, and then the death of ground organs or their young seedlings.
Systemic, getting into the weed through ground organs or roots, are able to move around the plant, exerting a toxic effect on it.
According to the timing of application, herbicides are: pre-sowing, pre-emergence, post-emergence. Gardeners contribute almost all modern drugs by spraying weed leaves.
If you follow the basic rules for the use of drugs, then chemicals should not pollute the soil, have a harmful effect. However, by introducing increased doses, or by applying them for a long time, you can still contaminate the soil. And who knows how our health will react to this.
Agricultural scientists advise combining weed control chemicals + agrotechnical methods.
In the autumn, after harvesting, when only weeds remained, I used a systemic herbicide, for example, Roundup, to fight against it. It was quite effective against sow thistle, porcupine, wheatgrass, field bindweed (birch), shiritsa, ragweed and others. (Read the warning about the drug Roundup below).
By the way, my experience confirms that it is best to use systemic drugs in the fall. It’s hard for me to explain why weed removal is more effective in the fall. But I noticed that in the spring re-treatment of garden weeds is sometimes necessary, and in the autumn one is enough. In addition, when planning to fight against weeds with herbicides, turn over the lunar calendar: it is best to do this with a waning moon, because at this time the sap flow goes from top to bottom, so the drug will reach the roots faster, and you will see the result faster.
Weeds - photos and names
I can hardly boast that the weeds have completely defeated. Unfortunately no. But the fight against weeds in the country brings little success. I’m glad that the number of such malicious, hard-to-remove as birch, grass birch has decreased, and I do not see wheat grass where potatoes and pumpkins are planted, but, of course, it remained in some places ...
Creeping wheatgrass - malicious weed
I attribute wheatgrass to those weeds from which it is necessary to get rid surely. After all, the roots of wheatgrass are the main refuge of the wireworm. Especially carefully it is necessary to clean it where you are going to plant potatoes. Three years ago, I set myself the following task: to get rid of wheat grass, because weeding, tearing with the roots did not bring success. After harvesting, I walked through a potato field (3 acres) with a sprayer filled with Tornado solution. Two weeks later, I noticed a partial yellowing of the leaves of weeds, and a little later - the whole field was white and yellow. This color indicates that the roots began to die. By the way, such an operation with a tornado almost completely removed wheatgrass.
What to plant so that weeds do not grow? By the way, experienced gardeners advise to sow rapeseed for a successful fight against wheatgrass in the fall, after harvesting: sow in the autumn, and bury or plow it in the spring. Rapeseed will help you get rid of wheatgrass. It is also an excellent siderat. It will play the role of green fertilizer: fertilize, improve your soil. Thus, the benefit will be double: get rid of weeds - improve the soil.
Weed birch, which is difficult to get rid of
Birch trees were much smaller next spring. But she still was.
I explain this by the fact that before digging potatoes, I cleaned the area of weeds so that digging was easier, more convenient. Wheat grass is almost impossible to tear out of the ground, much less dry - I did not touch it. But I cleaned the birch whips. Apparently, before spraying, many of the roots of the birch were too deep, the Tornado did not have them.
How to get a birch from the garden? Below I will give practical advice from experienced gardeners. The fight against birch (bindweed), the most tenacious weed is always laborious and time-consuming.
This weed prefers heavy clay unstructured acidic soils, so in the autumn any deoxidizing material, for example, fluff lime (faceted glass per 1 m2) But remember that one and the same site can have unequal acidity in different places. If there is no litmus test on hand, check it this way: pour boiling water (just one glass) a handful of fresh leaves of currant or cherry, let stand for a while, strain, add 2 tablespoons of earth from the test site, mix. When the earth settles, the infusion will change its color. If it gets a reddish tint, then you took a sample where the soil is acidic. And if bluish or greenish, then the soil reaction is alkaline or neutral.
And in order to make it looser, in the area overgrown with weed birch (bindweed), make a couple of buckets of compost or manure, which must be rotted, in the autumn. Try to distribute these quantities on the site of 1 square. m. Dig the soil to deepen compost or manure by 10-12 cm, not more. Such a small seal stimulates the development of useful soil microorganisms, earthworms, the soil will become more loose, structural, better permeable to air, water, that is, one that does not like bindweed. And in the spring, when the first sprouts of the loach begin to appear, immediately treat them with herbicides: Roundup, Glyphosate, Hurricane Forte.
There is another way to deal with such a malicious weed as a birch (field bindweed). You can get rid of it even in one year. But only in some limited area. For this, do not plant anything there until the end of May. Let the bindweed rise, develop well. And then treat this site with Roundup. After three weeks, the birch shoots turn yellow, which means that the roots died. Free the area from the dead weed: you can plant there, anything.
Pig Weed - Photo
The pig is also very difficult to destroy. Propagated by pieces of rhizomes, which are formed when pruning with a chopper or when digging, plowing. The drought does not take it, since the roots can go deep into the earth for more than 1.5 m.That is, it is almost impossible to destroy it mechanically. For example, I left a part of my plot, where I was especially rampant with a swine, that was not planted, and treated it with a Tornado. It helped where the weed was cultivated.
But, nevertheless, everywhere I was not able to remove the pig as the first time. The task is complicated by the fact that he gets out of the ground after the emergence of shoots of garden stretch marks. It is dangerous to treat with herbicides - you can inadvertently touch garden shoots. It remains only to wait for the harvest ... And all summer I walk around the site after the rain, I tear out the pig, or rather, try to tear it out, since the main part of the root still remains underground. I tear it out where it grows too close to, for example, a pumpkin bush or zucchini. And if I see a boar between garden plants, then I just cut off the spikelets that begin to form in order to somehow prevent its seed reproduction.
I’m familiar with one gardener who destroyed a pig (he has 8 acres of land) - his plot has been free of this weed for several years. For many years in a row, after autumn plowing, he walked around his field with a trident manual cultivator, and pulled out from the freshly plowed land the roots of the pigskin cut by a plow from them.
Of course, you won’t be able to select all the roots at a time - only a small part can be collected in this way - the main root still remains deep underground, but by doing this every year we weaken the weeds - sooner or later we will defeat it. Everything must be chosen from the earth, even small parts of the root of the pig. The smallest piece less than 1 cm long will sprout in the spring. In the spring, again, you need to go through the plowed field - the roots that we accidentally went around in the fall will be found. The mechanical control of weed by porcini should be combined with drug treatment.
The third year has passed since the first chemical treatment of weed grass in the fall. Recently, I prefer to use a tornado. Weeds where I plant potatoes, corn, sunflowers, pumpkins, squash much less. There is almost no wheatgrass. But there are still others ... After the harvest, it is still easier to fight them.
But the plots planted with wild strawberries, raspberries, and other perennial crops, completely or partially very laborious, almost daily work to free from weeds ... I dream of all, planting strawberries on black spunbond, which covers the whole earth, preventing grass from sprouting. But for now, I only dream ... Although there is a positive experience in weed control in this way.
I use herbicides only on large tracts of land that I have intended for growing potatoes, corn, sunflowers, and pumpkins. Small areas that are located between fruit trees, shrubs, areas planted with strawberries, raspberries, I try not to process chemistry.
Purslane garden, photos and how to get rid
This year there were a lot of garden purslane. It has fleshy dense leaves, reddish thick stems, and grows, as it were, with a rosette. Sometimes one weed with its shoots can cover a significant area of land. He appeared from the earth after the potato had sprouted. It was impossible to spray with poisons. I had to spend the whole summer working as a hoe. This weed is also unpleasant because after weeding it must be taken away. Abandoned in the garden, it can again take root if left in moist, for example, after rain, soil. A hoe for a purslane is not always dangerous - its basal neck is underground, if cut above it, new shoots will soon appear. It is best to pull it out of the soil with the root or cut the root with a chopper at a depth of at least 2 centimeters.
Woodlice weed - photos, how to fight
Woodlouse or asterisk is a weed that spreads particularly quickly where carrots grow.
This unsolicited "neighbor" thickens the planting and interferes with the normal development of plants.How to deal with a weed like wood lice?
The fight with kerosene will be successful. Fill a spray with a small amount of kerosene - 100 grams will be enough. Spray the crops of carrots, while capturing the aisles where wood lice grow. This should be done when the shoots of wood lice will be in the phase of three leaves, only in dry sunny weather. After two or three days, the wood lice will wither, and then dry. Do not worry, carrots will remain to grow. From my own experience I can say that after such processing it grows even better.
Lamb purple - weed
There is another weed in my garden that is very difficult to get rid of. This is purpurea purpurea. When the calendula blooms, bees always swarm around its small flowers. After all, this is an excellent honey plant. There is even evidence that 56 kg of honey nectar can be collected from one hectare of sowing crypt. By the way, sometimes landscape designers use a crypt to fill empty, semi-shady places, creating beautiful natural clearings. True, in this case more decorative varieties are planted. Lamb is well "spreading" in the nearby territory, so its reproduction must be controlled.
It is also called deaf, red, false nettle, branchberry, snake grass, shandra. And as children we called it dog nettle or “dog” - the flowers in shape resemble the open mouth of a dog. This is a perennial. No digging, weeding does not help. April-May blooms in the Kuban. Propagated by nodules, which are located at the ends of the roots, are located deep underground. Propagated by seeds, too, but they have a thick shell, so it is difficult to germinate. The only advantage for the walnut is that if it is crushed as early as possible, then this year it will not appear, it will rise only next spring.
Watch a video that offers a very effective way to control weeds.
If the grass grows from cracks in the concrete path, or from any other hard coating, prepare the following mixture: 400 ml of vinegar (9%), 1/4 cup of salt, a few drops of liquid dishwashing detergent. Put the mixture in a jar or bottle, screw on the lid, shake well. If the cracks are narrow, then fill the mixture with a syringe, insert it into the gap along the entire length. And if the cracks are wide, then fill the gap with the mixture through the narrow neck of the bottle or the spout of the old teapot. A simple alternative to this method is to pour boiling salted water into the cracks. But it is desirable that the water does not get in and does not harm garden plants.
Here I tried to describe the main weeds, the names of which I know, from those that grow in my garden. But there are those whose names I don’t know ... I will try to gradually upload photos of weeds unknown to me, and from you, dear readers of my blog, I’m waiting for messages in the comments - suddenly someone knows, writes his name, distinguishing features that will help you quickly get rid of him.
By the way, you can photograph your weed grass, attach a picture to the comment. Perhaps, by common efforts we “recognize her by sight” - it will become more difficult for weeds to live with us.
P.S. The article was written a long time ago. I really used Roundup for several years in a row. But now, I would not offer you it for weed control - there was information about the almost deadly effect of one of the components of Roundup - glyphosate. Leading oncologists in the world have stated that the most widely used herbicide on earth may possibly cause cancer! I haven’t found information about the mechanism of Roundup’s effect on the human body. I can only assume that it is harmful to inhale small droplets when spraying. It is dangerous for the skin, mucous membranes. If you still decide to use Roundup, then be sure to use protective equipment - a respirator or bandage, glasses, gloves, trousers to protect the eyes, skin of hands, legs from getting the drug.The roundup is actively promoted by Monsanto, but it may appear under our trademarks Rodeo, Accord, and other names may appear over time.